A Day in Marseille: Finding Beauty in France’s Gritty Port City
"Decent people shouldn't live here. They'd be happier some place else." Jack Nicholson
8/25/20256 min read
We’ve discovered that in our world of European port stops, Genoa is to Italy as Marseille is to France—not the most beloved on our list, yet quietly rich in corners worth lingering over. Neither city ranks among our favorites, yet both still have a few gems worth discovering. If you have read our article on Genoa, you know that it is near the bottom of our list of Italian stops. Marseille falls into that same category for France. Even so, our day here brought us some memorable experiences.
Arriving in Marseille is not as simple as other ports. Unless you are sailing with Viking, most cruise ships dock about thirty minutes from the downtown area. Once you make the transfer, however, the city opens up to a day that can be enjoyed on foot. Our first stop was La Major, formally known as the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure. The cathedral you see today is a massive Neo-Byzantine structure that was built between 1852 and 1893 on the site of earlier churches. With striped stone, soaring domes, and a commanding view of the sea, it stands as one of the great landmarks of Marseille.
From the cathedral we walked down to the waterfront to visit the Musée Subaquatique de Marseille.
Looking out from the waterfront you can see the small island of If, which was made famous in Alexandre Dumas’ novel The Count of Monte Cristo. Even from a distance it adds a literary note to the harbor.
Later, we picked up an Uber and made our way to Palais Longchamp. Completed in 1869, it commemorates the construction of a canal that brought water from the Durance River to Marseille. The elaborate fountains, sweeping staircases, and sculpted colonnades make it feel more like a palace than a water monument. Today it houses both the Museum of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum, but the building and grounds themselves are the main attraction.
The highlight of our day was lunch at a family-owned café called Belleille Mer. The atmosphere was welcoming and relaxed, the kind of place where you settle in without watching the clock. We ordered charcuterie boards filled with local cheeses and meats, paired them with a bottle of regional wine, and spent time soaking in the flavors and the view. It was the kind of meal that stays with you long after you leave.
We also visited St. Vincent de Paul Church, known locally as Les Réformés, with its twin spires rising above the Canebière. Another highlight is the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, perched high on a limestone hill overlooking the city. Built in the mid nineteenth century, it is crowned with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary holding the child Jesus. Pilgrims have come here for centuries, and the panoramic views of Marseille and the sea are worth the climb.
The memory that stands out most clearly is our long lunch at Belleille Mer. Sitting with a bottle of wine, eating from boards piled with local specialties, and being treated like family by the staff reminded us that even in a city that may not be a favorite, you can find moments that are perfect.
Marseille is not a city we would rank high on our list, but it still deserves a day of exploration. Between the grand cathedral, the unique underwater museum, the literary connection to The Count of Monte Cristo, the fountains of Palais Longchamp, and the sweeping views from Notre Dame de la Garde, there is plenty to fill your time. The warmth we felt at a family café added a personal touch that will always stay with us.
If you approach Marseille with patience, you can discover beauty in its history, its food, and its people. And if you are here for more than a day, consider taking a quick trip to Monaco. The contrast between Marseille’s grit and Monte Carlo’s polish makes for an intriguing balance on any Riviera itinerary.
We’ve discovered that in our world of European port stops, Genoa is to Italy as Marseille is to France—not the most beloved on our list, yet quietly rich in corners worth lingering over. Neither city ranks among our favorites, yet both still have a few gems worth discovering. If you have read our article on Genoa, you know that it is near the bottom of our list of Italian stops. Marseille falls into that same category for France. Even so, our day here brought us some memorable experiences.
Arriving in Marseille is not as simple as other ports. Unless you are sailing with Viking, most cruise ships dock about thirty minutes from the downtown area. Once you make the transfer, however, the city opens up to a day that can be enjoyed on foot. Our first stop was La Major, formally known as the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure. The cathedral you see today is a massive Neo-Byzantine structure that was built between 1852 and 1893 on the site of earlier churches. With striped stone, soaring domes, and a commanding view of the sea, it stands as one of the great landmarks of Marseille.
From the cathedral we walked down to the waterfront to visit the Musée Subaquatique de Marseille.
Looking out from the waterfront you can see the small island of If, which was made famous in Alexandre Dumas’ novel The Count of Monte Cristo. Even from a distance it adds a literary note to the harbor.
Later, we picked up an Uber and made our way to Palais Longchamp. Completed in 1869, it commemorates the construction of a canal that brought water from the Durance River to Marseille. The elaborate fountains, sweeping staircases, and sculpted colonnades make it feel more like a palace than a water monument. Today it houses both the Museum of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum, but the building and grounds themselves are the main attraction.
The highlight of our day was lunch at a family-owned café called Belleille Mer. The atmosphere was welcoming and relaxed, the kind of place where you settle in without watching the clock. We ordered charcuterie boards filled with local cheeses and meats, paired them with a bottle of regional wine, and spent time soaking in the flavors and the view. It was the kind of meal that stays with you long after you leave.
We also visited St. Vincent de Paul Church, known locally as Les Réformés, with its twin spires rising above the Canebière. Another highlight is the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, perched high on a limestone hill overlooking the city. Built in the mid nineteenth century, it is crowned with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary holding the child Jesus. Pilgrims have come here for centuries, and the panoramic views of Marseille and the sea are worth the climb.
The memory that stands out most clearly is our long lunch at Belleille Mer. Sitting with a bottle of wine, eating from boards piled with local specialties, and being treated like family by the staff reminded us that even in a city that may not be a favorite, you can find moments that are perfect.
Marseille is not a city we would rank high on our list, but it still deserves a day of exploration. Between the grand cathedral, the unique underwater museum, the literary connection to The Count of Monte Cristo, the fountains of Palais Longchamp, and the sweeping views from Notre Dame de la Garde, there is plenty to fill your time. The warmth we felt at a family café added a personal touch that will always stay with us.
If you approach Marseille with patience, you can discover beauty in its history, its food, and its people. And if you are here for more than a day, consider taking a quick trip to Monaco. The contrast between Marseille’s grit and Monte Carlo’s polish makes for an intriguing balance on any Riviera itinerary.
