Antigua: Three Visits, Three Different Experiences
“Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.” Ralph Waldo Emerson
4/8/20268 min read
We have now been to Antigua three times, and each time we like it more and more. It is one of those islands that grows on you with each visit, especially once you figure out where to go and how to avoid the crowds.
Antigua is part of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda and is known for having 365 beaches, one for every day of the year. The island has a rich British colonial history and was once a major hub for sugar plantations in the Caribbean. Today, tourism drives the economy, and the island blends its historical roots with a laid back beach culture. English is the primary language, and the island is known for being easy to navigate for cruise passengers.
On our first trip, as we mentioned in our article Ports of Call on a Seven Day Celebrity Eclipse Cruise (Antigua, St Maarten, San Juan, Puerto Plata), we chose Dickenson Bay, one of the more popular beaches on the island.
It is an easy taxi ride for about twenty dollars and a good option if you are short on time and want a beach close to the port. Two beach chairs and an umbrella cost us twenty two dollars, which felt reasonable for the location, but after visiting other places, we realized that was not necessarily the best value.
Jet ski rentals and kayaks are readily available, so there is plenty to do if you want more than just relaxing on the beach. The biggest drawback is the crowds. Dickenson Bay fills up quickly, and arriving early is essential. Beach chairs do sell out, and the later you arrive, the busier and noisier it becomes. The chairs themselves are also worn down, and not all of them are in great shape.
On that first visit, we met Dwayne, a local driver, and kept his number. We used him on the second time we visited the island. If you plan ahead, you can contact him prior to your arrival and make arrangements through WhatsApp at +1 268 780 8188. Having a reliable local contact made a big difference for us on return visits.
On our second trip, we visited Valley Church Beach and immediately fell in love with it. This beach is much less crowded and absolutely beautiful. It is exactly what you picture when you think of a Caribbean beach. The water is that perfect turquoise, the sand is soft and white, and the overall atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Two beach chairs and an umbrella cost $25 to rent for the day.
There is a beach bar on site run by Deon, who happens to be Dwayne’s uncle, which made the experience feel even more personal. Everything about this beach felt better. Even the chairs were nicer and more comfortable.
The beach is also framed by two luxury resorts on either side, and it immediately stood out as a place we would come back to for a longer stay.
On our third trip to Antigua, we met Captain Morgan Livingston, who was our driver for the day. He can be reached via WhatsApp at +1 268 782 9408.
He took us to the southeast portion of the island, where English Harbor is located. This area is one of the most historically significant parts of Antigua. It was once a major base for the British Royal Navy in the Caribbean during the 18th century, serving as a strategic port to protect valuable trade routes and monitor naval activity in the region.
One of the highlights of this area is Shirley Heights, often referred to as Shirley Lookout. From here, you get incredible panoramic views overlooking English Harbor and the surrounding coastline. It is easy to see why this location was used as a military lookout point, as ships could be spotted well before they entered the harbor.
Nearby is Nelson’s Dockyard, named after Admiral Horatio Nelson, who was stationed here in the late 1700s. The dockyard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered the only continuously operating Georgian dockyard in the world. It was originally built and used by the British Navy to repair and maintain ships, taking advantage of the natural protection provided by English Harbor. Today, it has been beautifully restored and is filled with historic buildings, a marina, small shops, and restaurants.
To enter this area, there is a $15 USD fee, which gives you access to both Nelson’s Dockyard and Shirley Heights. Nelson’s Dockyard is a great place to walk around, take in the history, and enjoy the scenery. The combination of restored buildings, sailboats in the harbor, and surrounding hills makes it a very picturesque stop.
It is definitely worth visiting for the history and views, but it is best to go earlier in the day, as it gets very hot and crowded as the day goes on.
Antigua has a lot to offer, and we enjoyed our time there. If we return again, we will most likely head straight back to Valley Church Beach and spend the entire day there.
We have now been to Antigua three times, and each time we like it more and more. It is one of those islands that grows on you with each visit, especially once you figure out where to go and how to avoid the crowds.
Antigua is part of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda and is known for having 365 beaches, one for every day of the year. The island has a rich British colonial history and was once a major hub for sugar plantations in the Caribbean. Today, tourism drives the economy, and the island blends its historical roots with a laid back beach culture. English is the primary language, and the island is known for being easy to navigate for cruise passengers.
On our first trip, as we mentioned in our article Ports of Call on a Seven Day Celebrity Eclipse Cruise (Antigua, St Maarten, San Juan, Puerto Plata), we chose Dickenson Bay, one of the more popular beaches on the island.
It is an easy taxi ride for about twenty dollars and a good option if you are short on time and want a beach close to the port. Two beach chairs and an umbrella cost us twenty two dollars, which felt reasonable for the location, but after visiting other places, we realized that was not necessarily the best value.
Jet ski rentals and kayaks are readily available, so there is plenty to do if you want more than just relaxing on the beach. The biggest drawback is the crowds. Dickenson Bay fills up quickly, and arriving early is essential. Beach chairs do sell out, and the later you arrive, the busier and noisier it becomes. The chairs themselves are also worn down, and not all of them are in great shape.
On that first visit, we met Dwayne, a local driver, and kept his number. We used him on the second time we visited the island. If you plan ahead, you can contact him prior to your arrival and make arrangements through WhatsApp at +1 268 780 8188. Having a reliable local contact made a big difference for us on return visits.
On our second trip, we visited Valley Church Beach and immediately fell in love with it. This beach is much less crowded and absolutely beautiful. It is exactly what you picture when you think of a Caribbean beach. The water is that perfect turquoise, the sand is soft and white, and the overall atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Two beach chairs and an umbrella cost $25 to rent for the day.
There is a beach bar on site run by Deon, who happens to be Dwayne’s uncle, which made the experience feel even more personal. Everything about this beach felt better. Even the chairs were nicer and more comfortable.
The beach is also framed by two luxury resorts on either side, and it immediately stood out as a place we would come back to for a longer stay.
On our third trip to Antigua, we met Captain Morgan Livingston, who was our driver for the day. He can be reached via WhatsApp at +1 268 782 9408.
He took us to the southeast portion of the island, where English Harbor is located. This area is one of the most historically significant parts of Antigua. It was once a major base for the British Royal Navy in the Caribbean during the 18th century, serving as a strategic port to protect valuable trade routes and monitor naval activity in the region.
One of the highlights of this area is Shirley Heights, often referred to as Shirley Lookout. From here, you get incredible panoramic views overlooking English Harbor and the surrounding coastline. It is easy to see why this location was used as a military lookout point, as ships could be spotted well before they entered the harbor.
Nearby is Nelson’s Dockyard, named after Admiral Horatio Nelson, who was stationed here in the late 1700s. The dockyard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered the only continuously operating Georgian dockyard in the world. It was originally built and used by the British Navy to repair and maintain ships, taking advantage of the natural protection provided by English Harbor. Today, it has been beautifully restored and is filled with historic buildings, a marina, small shops, and restaurants.
To enter this area, there is a $15 USD fee, which gives you access to both Nelson’s Dockyard and Shirley Heights. Nelson’s Dockyard is a great place to walk around, take in the history, and enjoy the scenery. The combination of restored buildings, sailboats in the harbor, and surrounding hills makes it a very picturesque stop.
It is definitely worth visiting for the history and views, but it is best to go earlier in the day, as it gets very hot and crowded as the day goes on.
Antigua has a lot to offer, and we enjoyed our time there. If we return again, we will most likely head straight back to Valley Church Beach and spend the entire day there.
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