Cartagena, Colombia: Chaos, Culture, and Caribbean Charm

Cartagena was one of the most overwhelming cities we have been to in a long time. The sensory overload is real. Noise, smells, music, and people everywhere. It feels like the entire city is happening all at once.

And then there are the vendors.

People constantly coming up to you selling souvenirs, cigars, and even quietly whispering offers of a powdery white substance. Of course, they only offered it to me and not Crystal. Apparently, I look like the fun one. Not sure how I should take that.

Teenagers will come up and start conversations, and before you know it, they are rapping, hustling, and trying to get a few dollars out of you. If it were entertaining, it might be different, but it gets old quickly. Very quickly.

We spent two weeks here, which gave us plenty of time to experience both sides of Cartagena. The chaos, and the beauty.

Once you make your way out of the heavy crowds, you start to see what makes this city special.

Cartagena, often referred to as the Caribbean city of Colombia, has a rich colonial history. Founded in 1533 by the Spanish, it quickly became one of the most important ports in the Americas for gold, silver, and trade. Because of that, it was also a frequent target for pirates. The massive stone walls that surround the Old Town were built to protect the city, and today they are one of its most defining features.

Walking through the historic center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, you will see colorful buildings, large wooden balconies, beautiful cathedrals, and open plazas that feel very similar to parts of Barcelona or Málaga in Spain.

The first thing we usually do in a new city is take a Guru Free Walking Tour. Normally, these are great and give you a solid foundation of the city.

This one… not so much.

The tour was supposed to start at 4:00 pm but started 15 minutes late and it lasted about two and a half hours. Normally, these groups are small, maybe five or six people. This one had 19. Clearly, they were going for volume of tips over quality.

We still saw the highlights and learned some good information about the city and local customs, but it was not as enjoyable as other Guru Tours we have done. That said, the guides work off tips, so it is not a huge loss. We would still recommend doing one early in your trip just to get your bearings.

Another day, we focused on food, which we had heard a lot about, and Cartagena did not disappoint.

We started at Le Cevichería , which was made famous by Anthony Bourdain. It is a small, boutique restaurant and lives up to the hype. Some of the best ceviche we have ever had. If you can, sit inside. The air conditioning alone is worth it. Outside, you will be constantly interrupted by vendors and beggars. Even though there was security, they were not discouraged.

We ordered the Colombian ceviche, and the mix of fresh flavors is hard to explain. We split it, and it was more than enough. The mojitos were also excellent. https://youtu.be/SzMKY4kECJE?si=aosK6K7UpSD_KNm0

After leaving Le Cevichería, we took a left and walked south down Carrera 7. About two and a half blocks later, we found a street vendor set up in front of the Townhouse Cartagena Boutique Art Hotel. This stand opens around 5:00 pm and serves some of the best arepas we had on the trip. Everything is made fresh, and by the time we left, there were about 20 people lined up. That tells you everything you need to know.

No trip to another country is complete for Crystal unless she finds a Mexican restaurant. So, we ended up at Rosa Mezcal Taquería Cantina Mexicana. It is centrally located next to Plaza de la Aduana, which is always full of vendors and street performers. The bartender, Gilberto, made excellent margaritas, and the overall vibe of the restaurant was great. Definitely worth adding to your list.

During our two weeks in Cartagena, we stayed at Dreams Karibana Cartagena Beach & Golf Resort.

The resort is about 25 minutes from both the airport and downtown. Each day, they offer free roundtrip transportation at 3:00 pm and 7:00 pm into the city, which is a huge benefit. Ubers or taxis can cost around $30 each way, so this adds up quickly if you are going back and forth.

The main pool area at the resort was one of our favorite spots. The pool staff was fantastic, constantly bringing food and drinks. Jesus quickly became our best friend. Somehow, the pool bar also made some of the best hamburgers we have had in a long time. Big, hand formed patties with caramelized onions and cheese. They were excellent.

If you want the best food at the resort, find Estefanía. She works the omelet station at breakfast and also helps at the grill. She does not speak much English, but she works incredibly hard and genuinely cares. Get to know her, and your experience will be much better.

There is also a beach club about a five minute walk from the main resort. It has a pool, bar, restaurant, and beach access. There is supposed to be a shuttle every 30 minutes, but that was hit or miss, so we usually just walked. The food there was not as good as at the main pool but they have different options.

The entertainment team was another highlight. Yenny, George and ______ and the rest of the team were always engaged, organizing yoga, Pilates, water aerobics, and spinning classes. They were outgoing, friendly, and clearly enjoyed what they were doing.

Now for the unfortunate part.

The buffet was completely mediocre. Breakfast, lunch, or dinner, it did not matter. You could always find something to eat, and you were not going to starve, but it was never something you looked forward to. And aside from Crystal, nothing gets me more excited than food, so that was a bit disappointing.

For dinner, we mostly ate at the Sunset Grill. They had a ribeye with mashed potatoes and onions that was decent. Think Golden Corral. You would not pay for it in the States, but it was one of the better options at the resort. After a couple of drinks, it tasted even better.

We always sat in Lina’s section, and she was easily the best server at the resort. If you asked her for something once, you never had to ask again. She remembered everything and was always one step ahead. Refills, drinks, anything you needed, she had it covered. That is what great service looks like.

We also tried the Italian restaurant, Portofino. The ambiance was nice, and they get points for effort, but the food was still just average. They make the Olive Garden look like a 5 star restaurant.

One thing we did like was the gym. It was better than most Dreams properties we have visited and had everything we needed.

Transportation to and from the airport should absolutely be arranged ahead of time. Do not rely on Ubers. They can be unreliable. Either have the hotel set it up or arrange it in advance. The hotel

As travel advisors, we also tried to connect with the sales team at the resort. We sent three emails during our stay. They responded once, offered to meet, and then they never followed through. That was disappointing. We are always looking for ways to better serve our clients, and that type of communication and relationship matters.

We did visit other properties in the downtown area and have better recommendations if this resort does not seem like the right fit for you.

Cartagena is a city of extremes. It can be chaotic, overwhelming, and frustrating at times. But it is also vibrant, historic, and full of life.

The food, the architecture, and the energy make it worth visiting. You just need to come in with the right expectations and a little patience.

If you are thinking about visiting Cartagena and want help planning the right experience, whether that is a resort stay, a boutique hotel in Old Town, or something in between, reach out to us. We are happy to help you avoid the headaches and help you make the most of your trip.