Discovering Málaga: Alcazaba, La Manquita, and Picasso’s Legacy
“Others have seen what is and asked why. I have seen what could be and asked why not.” Pablo Picasso
8/25/20257 min read
In so many ways Málaga feels like the laid‑back cousin of other vibrant Spanish cities. Its historical center is a walking town where layers of culture gently unfold rather than overwhelm you.
We arrived eager to wander, and the city welcomed us with warm rainy day, a friendly buzz, and the promise of stories around every corner. The Roman Theatre lies nestled at the foot of the Alcazaba, one of the oldest amphitheaters in Spain, built in the first century BC and recently restored, so you almost stumble across one era as you step into another.
On our way up to the Alcazaba fortress, we felt the city’s heartbeat shift, or maybe I was just having a heart attack walking up all the stairs. This citadel began life around the 11th century during Muslim rule and still stands as one of the best‑preserved Moorish fortresses in Spain. Layers of history cling to its walls: remnants of Phoenician and Roman fortifications that would become medieval strongholds. Walking through its double-walled gates and sunlit gardens, you can feel centuries of power and peace mingled in the stones.
At the heart of the city sits the Cathedral of Málaga, affectionately known as La Manquita or “the one‑armed lady” because, while work began in 1528 over a former mosque, only one of its two towers was ever completed. With its Renaissance style softened by Gothic, Baroque, and even Neoclassical flourishes, it reflects both economic ambition and the reality of limited resources. If you visit on a Sunday service, be prepared, it's packed with worshippers, and understandably, tourists are discouraged from entering during the service. We felt perfectly fine sitting outside, soaking up the architecture instead.
A highlight for many visitors is the connection to Pablo Picasso. Málaga is his birthplace, and today there are two different museums that celebrate his life and work.
Museo Picasso Málaga is the larger, modern museum housed in the Buenavista Palace. It opened in 2003 with the support of Picasso’s heirs and contains more than two hundred works that span the entirety of his career. Here you see everything from early sketches to late paintings, along with ceramics and sculptures, offering a broad overview of his artistic evolution.
Museo Casa Natal de Picasso is the actual house where Picasso was born in 1881. Established as a museum in 1988, it focuses more on his early life. Inside you find family possessions, early drawings, and items connected to his formative years.
We are not huge fans of Picasso ourselves, but it is easy to appreciate the scale of his influence. Beyond Málaga, there are other important Picasso museums, including the Museu Picasso in Barcelona and the Musée Picasso in Paris. Each one has its own focus, but Málaga’s two museums are unique in the way they tie directly to the artist’s origins and personal story.
One of our favorite things to do in the old town was settle into a little bistro, order sangria and Spanish ham, and just people-watch. You don’t pay tourist prices here, and the scene is rich with local life, chunky tiles underfoot, grandparents chatting with neighborhood kids, couples arguing over tapas, all under the dappled shade of orange trees. There’s a relaxed rhythm here that makes even a simple snack feel like poetry.
Málaga might not be the most famous of Spain’s southern cities, but it rewards those who walk slowly and pay attention. From the ancient depth of the Roman Theatre to the high beauty of the Alcazaba, from La Manquita’s unfinished grace to Picasso’s youthful home, there’s history at every step. And sipping sangria under that soft Andalusian light reminds you why travel is as much about mood as it is about monuments.
We may not love every city equally, but Málaga’s ability to blend culture, history, affordability, and everyday warmth makes it a stop we’re glad we didn’t miss.
If you’d like us to weave together another city’s quiet magic with personal pace, we’d be happy to.
In so many ways Málaga feels like the laid‑back cousin of other vibrant Spanish cities. Its historical center is a walking town where layers of culture gently unfold rather than overwhelm you.
We arrived eager to wander, and the city welcomed us with warm rainy day, a friendly buzz, and the promise of stories around every corner. The Roman Theatre lies nestled at the foot of the Alcazaba, one of the oldest amphitheaters in Spain, built in the first century BC and recently restored, so you almost stumble across one era as you step into another.
On our way up to the Alcazaba fortress, we felt the city’s heartbeat shift, or maybe I was just having a heart attack walking up all the stairs. This citadel began life around the 11th century during Muslim rule and still stands as one of the best‑preserved Moorish fortresses in Spain. Layers of history cling to its walls: remnants of Phoenician and Roman fortifications that would become medieval strongholds. Walking through its double-walled gates and sunlit gardens, you can feel centuries of power and peace mingled in the stones.
At the heart of the city sits the Cathedral of Málaga, affectionately known as La Manquita or “the one‑armed lady” because, while work began in 1528 over a former mosque, only one of its two towers was ever completed. With its Renaissance style softened by Gothic, Baroque, and even Neoclassical flourishes, it reflects both economic ambition and the reality of limited resources. If you visit on a Sunday service, be prepared, it's packed with worshippers, and understandably, tourists are discouraged from entering during the service. We felt perfectly fine sitting outside, soaking up the architecture instead.
A highlight for many visitors is the connection to Pablo Picasso. Málaga is his birthplace, and today there are two different museums that celebrate his life and work.
Museo Picasso Málaga is the larger, modern museum housed in the Buenavista Palace. It opened in 2003 with the support of Picasso’s heirs and contains more than two hundred works that span the entirety of his career. Here you see everything from early sketches to late paintings, along with ceramics and sculptures, offering a broad overview of his artistic evolution.
Museo Casa Natal de Picasso is the actual house where Picasso was born in 1881. Established as a museum in 1988, it focuses more on his early life. Inside you find family possessions, early drawings, and items connected to his formative years.
We are not huge fans of Picasso ourselves, but it is easy to appreciate the scale of his influence. Beyond Málaga, there are other important Picasso museums, including the Museu Picasso in Barcelona and the Musée Picasso in Paris. Each one has its own focus, but Málaga’s two museums are unique in the way they tie directly to the artist’s origins and personal story.
One of our favorite things to do in the old town was settle into a little bistro, order sangria and Spanish ham, and just people-watch. You don’t pay tourist prices here, and the scene is rich with local life, chunky tiles underfoot, grandparents chatting with neighborhood kids, couples arguing over tapas, all under the dappled shade of orange trees. There’s a relaxed rhythm here that makes even a simple snack feel like poetry.
Málaga might not be the most famous of Spain’s southern cities, but it rewards those who walk slowly and pay attention. From the ancient depth of the Roman Theatre to the high beauty of the Alcazaba, from La Manquita’s unfinished grace to Picasso’s youthful home, there’s history at every step. And sipping sangria under that soft Andalusian light reminds you why travel is as much about mood as it is about monuments.
We may not love every city equally, but Málaga’s ability to blend culture, history, affordability, and everyday warmth makes it a stop we’re glad we didn’t miss.
If you’d like us to weave together another city’s quiet magic with personal pace, we’d be happy to.
