Galápagos Islands, Ecuador
“The adrenaline and stress of an adventure are better than a thousand peaceful days.” Paulo Coehlo
5/5/202617 min read
Our trip to the Galápagos Islands was one of the most rewarding and, at times, one of the most frustrating trips we have taken. In this article, we will walk through both sides of that experience. The logistical challenges are real, but so are the rewards, and those rewards are unlike anything we have seen anywhere else in the world.
For this trip, we booked everything individually and did not travel with an organized tour group. If we were to do it again, or recommend it to our clients, we would strongly suggest taking a cruise. Cruise operators such as Celebrity, Silversea, and National Geographic Expeditions offer access to multiple islands, which is important because each island has its own unique ecosystem and wildlife. Due to strict environmental regulations, only smaller ships are allowed, which helps preserve the islands but also limits access.
If you plan to coordinate a trip to the Galápagos on your own, you need to be prepared and plan ahead. There are several steps required just to get onto the islands, and nearly all of them require cash.
Before your flight, you must complete two separate registrations online. The first is the sworn declaration form, and the second is the Transit Control Card (TCT). Once you arrive at the airport in mainland Ecuador, you must present your TCT QR code and pay a $20 fee in cash per person. From there, all luggage is scanned before you can check in for your flight.
After a roughly two hour flight to the Galápagos, the process continues. You first go to the control desk for them to review your TCT Card an passport. Once approved, you go to the next desk and pay $200 cash per person to enter the island. Once you get done giving them your first born child, you collect your luggage. You then pay $2.50 cash to take a 10 minute bus ride to a ferry, then pay $1 cash for the ferry, to cross over to Santa Cruz island. You then can take a taxi for about 30 minutes to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. Every step requires cash.
Fortunately, we booked our stay at La Isla Hotel, which we highly recommend, and arranged transportation through them. This turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. We were met upon arrival, escorted through each step, and everything was handled for us. While it cost a bit more, it removed all the stress and confusion. Watching the other tourists struggle with the process was interesting to watch.
Once in Puerto Ayora, everything changes. The town feels like nowhere else in the world. Sea lions rest on park benches and under cars, marine iguanas are everywhere, and pelicans dive into the water just steps away from where you are walking. It feels like you are living inside a nature documentary.
On the day we arrived, we went to the Charles Darwin Research Center to see the giant tortoises. Even getting there came with a surprise. Our hotel was about 1 mile from the center and since it was so hot, we decided to take a taxi. All taxi’s inside the town cost a flat rate of $2 and so we thought this was a wise choice. This was until the taxi drove 500 meters and we were dropped off about a kilometer away because of vehicle restrictions and they are not allowed to drive the full distance to the center. That short ride no longer felt like the best investment.
We had heard mixed reviews about the guided tours, so we initially tried to explore on our own. Despite the website stating that this was possible, we were told on arrival that a guide was required. We ended up paying $20 for a shortened tour were able to see the tortoises.
At the center, you primarily see saddleback tortoises. These tortoises have a unique shell shape that curves upward at the front, allowing them to extend their necks higher to reach cactus and vegetation. This adaptation is a direct example of evolution in response to their environment, which is exactly what fascinated Charles Darwin during his time here.
The next day, we took a full day tour to Isabela Island. This was one of the most beautiful, but also one of the most frustrating days of the trip.
The day started early, with a 6:10 pickup and a series of lines. You wait for your boarding pass, then for luggage screening, then for a $1 water taxi to your speedboat, followed by a crowded two hour speedboat ride across rough water. Even for those who do not normally get seasick, this was a challenge.
Once you arrive, the process continues with another $1 water taxi and a $10 entry fee, all in cash, and per person, before your tour even begins.
Once your tour finally begins, you start with the land portion around 10:30. The first stop is a lagoon that is supposed to be full of flamingos in their natural habitat… or in our case, the four flamingos that decided to show up that day. Still cool to see, just not quite the National Geographic moment we had pictured.
From there, we headed to the Tortoise Breeding Center, where you see a different species known as the “sandwich” tortoises. Unlike the saddleback tortoises, these have more flattened shells, which are better suited for areas with lower vegetation. These tortoises were a little more… active than the ones we saw at the Darwin Center. They definitely live up to the “breeding” portion of the name. At one point we even saw one trying to go side saddle, which does not seem like the most effective strategy, but who are we to question an animal with over 100 years of mating experience.
After that, we went to lunch and then started the water portion of the tour, heading to Las Tintoreras by boat. For once, this was included and did not require another $1 payment, which felt like a win.
Las Tintoreras is a group of small volcanic islets formed by ancient lava flows. The black lava rock contrasts with the bright turquoise water, making it one of the more visually striking areas we visited. The name comes from the white tipped reef sharks that rest in the shallow channels between the rocks. While we did not see many sharks, we did get our first look at Galápagos penguins and blue footed boobies, which ended up being the highlight of the day.
Once we arrived, we walked along the rocky paths where you see exactly what you expect from the Galápagos. Sea lions lounging everywhere, marine iguanas piled on top of each other soaking up the sun, and sea turtles swimming just below the surface in crystal clear water. It is one of those places that actually looks like the pictures.
After the walk, we went snorkeling. Unfortunately, the water was a little rough that day, and the visibility was not great, which made it less enjoyable than we had hoped. Still, being in the water there is something special.
Then came the return trip, which was basically a repeat of the morning. Another $1 water taxi, another two hour speedboat ride, and another $1 water taxi back to the dock. By the time we got back around 4:30, we were completely exhausted. It was a long day, a frustrating day at times, but still worth it to see these animals in their natural habitat.
The next day was a completely different experience, and honestly how we wish the entire trip had been. We took a smaller tour to Pinzón Island with Perfect Destiny Galápagos, and it was outstanding.
The group was smaller, with only about eight other people, the boat ride was smoother, and the day was broken up into shorter segments. We started with a snorkeling stop along the east coast of Santa Cruz. The water here was crystal clear, and we saw sea turtles, stingrays, and a wide variety of tropical fish.
On the way to Pinzón Island, the captain spotted a large group of birds feeding in the water near a small island. The crew dropped some fishing lines, and within minutes both were hit. I grabbed one of the rods, and another guy grabbed the other. We will call him “rookie.” Rookie lost his fish. I did not.
After a bit of a fight, we got it up near the boat and realized it was about a seven foot shark. Unfortunately, that was not making it onto the grill, but it was still an incredible experience and definitely not something we expected to be doing that day.
From there, we moved to the rocky cliffs of Pinzón Island for what ended up being one of the best snorkeling experiences we have ever had. Not only were we able to see blue footed boobies up close on the rocks, but we were also able to swim with sea lions. Watching them chase bait fish, dart around you, and almost play in the water was unreal. It was our first time swimming with sea lions, and it was easily one of the highlights of the entire trip.
After lunch, we headed back to Puerto Ayora, and for once, we were not completely drained. This tour was far more enjoyable, better organized, and just an overall better experience. If you are going to book a day trip, we highly recommend going this route.
While in Puerto Ayora, we had some great meals. Isla Grill is definitely worth a visit, especially for their seafood over mushroom risotto. FraFre Gastrobar is another must try, and their scorpionfish was one of the best dishes we had on the island.
Shopping for souvenirs, however, was another adventure. Even though tourism is the main source of income, you would not always know it. Many of the shop workers seemed more interested in playing games or watching TikTok on their phones than helping customers, and despite having credit card machines, many still insisted on cash only. At this point, it was not surprising, just part of the experience.
The La Isla Hotel was an excellent choice for our stay. It is centrally located, very clean, modern, and felt extremely safe. The customer service was outstanding, and Joseph at the front desk was especially helpful and professional. We highly recommend this hotel if you are staying in Puerto Ayora.
Overall, the Galápagos Islands are one of the most unique and beautiful places we have ever visited. The wildlife, the landscapes, and the feeling of being somewhere truly untouched make it an unforgettable destination.
With that being said, if we were to do it again or recommend it to others, we would strongly suggest taking a cruise. You will see more islands, experience more wildlife, and avoid many of the logistical frustrations that come with planning it on your own.
If a cruise is not in the budget, you can absolutely still enjoy the islands like we did. You just need to set your expectations ahead of time and be prepared for the process.
Early sailors called them the Enchanted Isles, and after spending time there, it is easy to see why. There are very few places left in the world where wildlife exists this freely and where humans feel like the visitors.
*Check out our articles with information on our stay in Quito and in the Amazon at the following links:
1. https://allinglobaltravel.com/quito-ecuador-authentic-affordable-and-worth-exploring
Our trip to the Galápagos Islands was one of the most rewarding and, at times, one of the most frustrating trips we have taken. In this article, we will walk through both sides of that experience. The logistical challenges are real, but so are the rewards, and those rewards are unlike anything we have seen anywhere else in the world.
For this trip, we booked everything individually and did not travel with an organized tour group. If we were to do it again, or recommend it to our clients, we would strongly suggest taking a cruise. Cruise operators such as Celebrity, Silversea, and National Geographic Expeditions offer access to multiple islands, which is important because each island has its own unique ecosystem and wildlife. Due to strict environmental regulations, only smaller ships are allowed, which helps preserve the islands but also limits access.
If you plan to coordinate a trip to the Galápagos on your own, you need to be prepared and plan ahead. There are several steps required just to get onto the islands, and nearly all of them require cash.
Before your flight, you must complete two separate registrations online. The first is the sworn declaration form, and the second is the Transit Control Card (TCT). Once you arrive at the airport in mainland Ecuador, you must present your TCT QR code and pay a $20 fee in cash per person. From there, all luggage is scanned before you can check in for your flight.
After a roughly two hour flight to the Galápagos, the process continues. You first go to the control desk for them to review your TCT Card an passport. Once approved, you go to the next desk and pay $200 cash per person to enter the island. Once you get done giving them your first born child, you collect your luggage. You then pay $2.50 cash to take a 10 minute bus ride to a ferry, then pay $1 cash for the ferry, to cross over to Santa Cruz island. You then can take a taxi for about 30 minutes to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. Every step requires cash.
Fortunately, we booked our stay at La Isla Hotel, which we highly recommend, and arranged transportation through them. This turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. We were met upon arrival, escorted through each step, and everything was handled for us. While it cost a bit more, it removed all the stress and confusion. Watching the other tourists struggle with the process was interesting to watch.
Once in Puerto Ayora, everything changes. The town feels like nowhere else in the world. Sea lions rest on park benches and under cars, marine iguanas are everywhere, and pelicans dive into the water just steps away from where you are walking. It feels like you are living inside a nature documentary.
On the day we arrived, we went to the Charles Darwin Research Center to see the giant tortoises. Even getting there came with a surprise. Our hotel was about 1 mile from the center and since it was so hot, we decided to take a taxi. All taxi’s inside the town cost a flat rate of $2 and so we thought this was a wise choice. This was until the taxi drove 500 meters and we were dropped off about a kilometer away because of vehicle restrictions and they are not allowed to drive the full distance to the center. That short ride no longer felt like the best investment.
We had heard mixed reviews about the guided tours, so we initially tried to explore on our own. Despite the website stating that this was possible, we were told on arrival that a guide was required. We ended up paying $20 for a shortened tour were able to see the tortoises.
At the center, you primarily see saddleback tortoises. These tortoises have a unique shell shape that curves upward at the front, allowing them to extend their necks higher to reach cactus and vegetation. This adaptation is a direct example of evolution in response to their environment, which is exactly what fascinated Charles Darwin during his time here.
The next day, we took a full day tour to Isabela Island. This was one of the most beautiful, but also one of the most frustrating days of the trip.
The day started early, with a 6:10 pickup and a series of lines. You wait for your boarding pass, then for luggage screening, then for a $1 water taxi to your speedboat, followed by a crowded two hour speedboat ride across rough water. Even for those who do not normally get seasick, this was a challenge.
Once you arrive, the process continues with another $1 water taxi and a $10 entry fee, all in cash, and per person, before your tour even begins.
Once your tour finally begins, you start with the land portion around 10:30. The first stop is a lagoon that is supposed to be full of flamingos in their natural habitat… or in our case, the four flamingos that decided to show up that day. Still cool to see, just not quite the National Geographic moment we had pictured.
From there, we headed to the Tortoise Breeding Center, where you see a different species known as the “sandwich” tortoises. Unlike the saddleback tortoises, these have more flattened shells, which are better suited for areas with lower vegetation. These tortoises were a little more… active than the ones we saw at the Darwin Center. They definitely live up to the “breeding” portion of the name. At one point we even saw one trying to go side saddle, which does not seem like the most effective strategy, but who are we to question an animal with over 100 years of mating experience.
After that, we went to lunch and then started the water portion of the tour, heading to Las Tintoreras by boat. For once, this was included and did not require another $1 payment, which felt like a win.
Las Tintoreras is a group of small volcanic islets formed by ancient lava flows. The black lava rock contrasts with the bright turquoise water, making it one of the more visually striking areas we visited. The name comes from the white tipped reef sharks that rest in the shallow channels between the rocks. While we did not see many sharks, we did get our first look at Galápagos penguins and blue footed boobies, which ended up being the highlight of the day.
Once we arrived, we walked along the rocky paths where you see exactly what you expect from the Galápagos. Sea lions lounging everywhere, marine iguanas piled on top of each other soaking up the sun, and sea turtles swimming just below the surface in crystal clear water. It is one of those places that actually looks like the pictures.
After the walk, we went snorkeling. Unfortunately, the water was a little rough that day, and the visibility was not great, which made it less enjoyable than we had hoped. Still, being in the water there is something special.
Then came the return trip, which was basically a repeat of the morning. Another $1 water taxi, another two hour speedboat ride, and another $1 water taxi back to the dock. By the time we got back around 4:30, we were completely exhausted. It was a long day, a frustrating day at times, but still worth it to see these animals in their natural habitat.
The next day was a completely different experience, and honestly how we wish the entire trip had been. We took a smaller tour to Pinzón Island with Perfect Destiny Galápagos, and it was outstanding.
The group was smaller, with only about eight other people, the boat ride was smoother, and the day was broken up into shorter segments. We started with a snorkeling stop along the east coast of Santa Cruz. The water here was crystal clear, and we saw sea turtles, stingrays, and a wide variety of tropical fish.
On the way to Pinzón Island, the captain spotted a large group of birds feeding in the water near a small island. The crew dropped some fishing lines, and within minutes both were hit. I grabbed one of the rods, and another guy grabbed the other. We will call him “rookie.” Rookie lost his fish. I did not.
After a bit of a fight, we got it up near the boat and realized it was about a seven foot shark. Unfortunately, that was not making it onto the grill, but it was still an incredible experience and definitely not something we expected to be doing that day.
From there, we moved to the rocky cliffs of Pinzón Island for what ended up being one of the best snorkeling experiences we have ever had. Not only were we able to see blue footed boobies up close on the rocks, but we were also able to swim with sea lions. Watching them chase bait fish, dart around you, and almost play in the water was unreal. It was our first time swimming with sea lions, and it was easily one of the highlights of the entire trip.
After lunch, we headed back to Puerto Ayora, and for once, we were not completely drained. This tour was far more enjoyable, better organized, and just an overall better experience. If you are going to book a day trip, we highly recommend going this route.
While in Puerto Ayora, we had some great meals. Isla Grill is definitely worth a visit, especially for their seafood over mushroom risotto. FraFre Gastrobar is another must try, and their scorpionfish was one of the best dishes we had on the island.
Shopping for souvenirs, however, was another adventure. Even though tourism is the main source of income, you would not always know it. Many of the shop workers seemed more interested in playing games or watching TikTok on their phones than helping customers, and despite having credit card machines, many still insisted on cash only. At this point, it was not surprising, just part of the experience.
The La Isla Hotel was an excellent choice for our stay. It is centrally located, very clean, modern, and felt extremely safe. The customer service was outstanding, and Joseph at the front desk was especially helpful and professional. We highly recommend this hotel if you are staying in Puerto Ayora.
Overall, the Galápagos Islands are one of the most unique and beautiful places we have ever visited. The wildlife, the landscapes, and the feeling of being somewhere truly untouched make it an unforgettable destination.
With that being said, if we were to do it again or recommend it to others, we would strongly suggest taking a cruise. You will see more islands, experience more wildlife, and avoid many of the logistical frustrations that come with planning it on your own.
If a cruise is not in the budget, you can absolutely still enjoy the islands like we did. You just need to set your expectations ahead of time and be prepared for the process.
Early sailors called them the Enchanted Isles, and after spending time there, it is easy to see why. There are very few places left in the world where wildlife exists this freely and where humans feel like the visitors.
*Check out our articles with information on our stay in Quito and in the Amazon at the following links:
1. https://allinglobaltravel.com/quito-ecuador-authentic-affordable-and-worth-exploring
info@allinglobaltravel.com